We will return to the sew-along shortly, in the mean while here is a third option for the pocket. Use it for the Hagen skirt or add to any simple skirt, blouse or dress either on the hip or as a breast pocket.
This pocket is a large rectangular shape with a flap. The pattern includes three pieces:
• Pocket flap
• Flap lining
• Flap interfacing
Make sure to print at 100% scale and untick "fit to page". Both US letter and A4 paper sizes can be used.
Let's go through the steps for sewing this pocket:
We've cut the pocket and flap in self fabric, and the flap lining in lining fabric. We've also cut the interfacing that is about 4 mm smaller than the flap. The pattern pieces include seam allowance so trace along the edges and make sure to cut away your tracing lines when cutting.
First of all apply the interfacing on the wrong side of the pocket flap. Interfacing is recommended because it will help make sure the flap keeps its shape and lays flat.
Pin lining to flap, making sure to match edges. The lining is slightly smaller to allow for turn of cloth which means the pieces will not lay flat when pinned together. Just match the edges and don't worry about the dragging.
You will notice that the flap gets a bit narrower towards the top. Leave the top open and sew all other edges. Trim away the corners and grade or trim entire seam allowance if working with a medium to heavy weight fabric. We've only trimmed one layer of seam allowance at the corner and are using this technique to sew the corners.
Turn pocket so that right side is out and push out the corners with a blunt tool.
Press into a neat shape. Topstitch around the same three edges you've just sewn, leaving the top open.
We've finished the flap, let's put it aside and move on to the pocket.
At notches, fold the top edge to the right side. Then fold up 1 cm (3/8") along the edge. Press and pin in place. Again, match the edges although this means you will have to drag the fabric to match. The slight difference in widths is intentional.
Sew the edges. Again, you can either grade seam allowance and clip away corners, or use our trick for sewing corners.
Turn so that right side is out, press and pin the folded edge in place.
Press under seam allowance along entire pocket. At the corners make sure that seam allowance is not peaking out and secure with pins
Your pocket and flap are ready to be attached!