Hagen skirt sew-along - Part 4

Hagen skirt sew along part 4

Start by sewing the darts. Pop over to our tutorial on how to sew darts. Note that the dart legs are not straight but have a slight curve, so follow the traced line carefully.

Next, attach the pocket you’ve chosen to use. See a separate tutorial for each pocket below

Patch pocket
Rectangular pocket with flap
• Faux pocket flap - coming soon!

Sew the side seams of both lining and self fabric. We’ve finished all edges with an overlocker first, then sewn the side seams. For lining, we used french seams. Press side seams, either pressing them open or pressing towards the back piece.

Sew side seams of skirt and lining

Sew the facing: Matching side seams, right sides facing, sew back facings to front facing.

Sew back facings to front facing

Press seams open and pin facing along lining. If you start at the seams it’s easy to make sure they match. Also match notches.

Pin facing to lining

Sew facing to lining.

Sew facing to lining

Sew facing to lining

Press seam allowance towards the lining and understitch. Start and finish as close to the corner as you can. Grade seam allowance of lining to 3-4 mm ( 3/32” ) so that it turns neatly.

Understitching

understitching

Attaching the invisible zipper: First, do a basting stitch along the center back where the zip will be inserted. Use longest possible stitch length and a contrasting thread colour.

Sew zipper seam

Press seam open. Place zipper right side down (=the “invisible” side) Pin to seam allowance only, using plenty of pins. You can also baste the zipper tape to seam allowance instead of using pins.

Pin zipper to zip allowance

Unpick the basting stitch.

Unpick basting seam

The zipper is now secured exactly where it should be. With an invisible zipper foot sew the zipper in place, removing the pins as you go along.

Sew zipper with invisible zipper foot

Final part of the sew along coming soon!

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